Defect Atlas — Textiles

Loss of fibre flexibility, with the textile becoming stiff and prone to fracture under minimal handling.

Stiffened handle; audible cracking on flexing; fibres that snap rather than bend; sometimes discolouration.

Cumulative light exposure, oxidation, pollutants or past treatments may contribute.

• extent and distribution of embrittlement
• areas where flexing or folding has occurred
• any associated fibre loss or breakage
• whether handling appears to cause further damage

“The silk lining was recorded as embrittled across the central panel, with fibres fracturing under minimal handling.”

Reduction in fibre tensile strength without overt loss, often detected through handling rather than visual inspection.

Reduced resistance under light handling; threads that part with minimal tension; sometimes accompanied by colour change.

Long-term environmental exposure, photodegradation or chemical residues may contribute.

• areas where weakening is most apparent
• whether weakening is uniform or localised
• association with discolouration or staining
• evidence of fibre loss in handling areas

“Fibre weakening was recorded across the upper section, with reduced resistance noted at the suspension edge.”

Fine particulate loss from the textile surface as fibres break down into a powder-like residue.

Loose dust or fibre fragments on or beneath the textile; sometimes visible against a contrasting surface.

Advanced photodegradation, hydrolysis or chemical degradation may contribute; weighted silks and degraded cellulosics are particularly susceptible.

• presence of loose powder on or below the textile
• extent of affected area
• association with particular colours or weighted areas
• stability under minimal handling

“Powdering of fibres was recorded along the lower hem, with loose fibre dust collecting on the storage surface beneath.”

General reduction in the textile's ability to bear its own weight or sustain handling.

Tearing under minimal load; thread breakage at handling points; inability to support the textile from its original hanging or mount.

Cumulative fibre degradation, light damage, pollutants and prior mechanical stress may contribute.

• areas of greatest weakness
• whether the textile can be safely supported as currently mounted
• any recent thread breakage or tearing
• associated indicators of degradation

“Loss of tensile strength was recorded across the wool tapestry, with thread breakage observed along the upper supporting edge.”

Variation in the rate or extent of fibre deterioration across the textile, often associated with particular dyes, fibres or treatments.

Localised loss, weakening or colour change in specific areas, colours or yarn types while adjacent material remains intact.

Iron mordants, weighted silks, particular dye classes or differential exposure may contribute.

• pattern of differential degradation
• association with specific colours or fibres
• extent of loss within affected areas
• stability of surrounding material

“Differential degradation was recorded in the black silk areas, with loss and fragmentation observed against intact surrounding material.”

Discontinuities in individual warp, weft or stitching threads, with broken ends visible on the textile surface or reverse.

Visible broken ends; loose thread tails; localised disruption of the weave structure.

Mechanical stress, fibre weakening, handling at concentrated points or pest activity may contribute.

• location and extent of broken threads
• whether breakage is concentrated at handling points
• any associated loss of structure
• evidence of progression

“Broken warp threads were recorded along the lower right edge, with several loose ends visible on the reverse.”

Areas where individual threads have been lost from the textile, leaving voids within the weave structure.

Open weave structure; visible underlying support, lining or void where threads are missing; sometimes accompanied by fraying at edges of loss.

Cumulative fibre degradation, abrasion, pest activity or past damage may contribute.

• location and extent of thread loss
• type of threads affected (warp, weft, supplementary)
• stability of adjacent material
• evidence of continuing loss

“Thread loss was recorded across an area approximately 80 mm square in the lower section, exposing the supporting fabric beneath.”

Displacement of yarns within the weave structure, leaving gaps or distorted areas without outright fibre loss.

Open spaces between yarns; bunched yarns adjacent to displaced areas; visible distortion of the weave grid.

Loose original construction, mechanical stress, mounting tension or past wear may contribute.

• location and extent of slippage
• direction of yarn movement
• any associated thread breakage
• stability of the affected area

“Yarn slippage was recorded in the central area, with several weft yarns displaced and grouped towards the lower edge.”

Progressive loss of edge threads producing a frayed or unravelling perimeter.

Loose, untwisted or detached threads at edges; reducing edge width; sometimes accompanied by associated thread loss.

Edge handling, lack of edge finish, abrasion or fibre degradation may contribute.

• location and extent of fraying
• whether original edge finish remains intact
• associated thread loss
• evidence of ongoing unravelling

“Fraying was recorded along the lower edge of the hanging, with loose threads extending up to 20 mm beyond the original edge line.”

Loss of pile from velvets, carpets or other cut or looped textiles, leaving the foundation weave exposed.

Thinned or absent pile; visible foundation weave; sometimes associated with traffic patterns or wear lines.

Wear, abrasion, insect activity or past cleaning may contribute.

• location and extent of pile loss
• pattern of wear (linear, traffic-related, generalised)
• stability of remaining pile
• condition of exposed foundation

“Pile loss was recorded in a band approximately 200 mm wide across the central area, with the foundation weave visible.”

Loss or detachment of decorative or structural elements applied to the textile, such as appliqué, trims or embellishments.

Loose, partially attached or absent elements; sometimes with residual stitching marks or adhesive residue.

Thread degradation, adhesive failure, mechanical stress or past handling may contribute.

• type and number of detached or missing elements
• location and stability of remaining elements
• evidence of attachment method
• presence of detached pieces in storage or display area

“Two of the six applied silk roundels were recorded as detached, with residual stitching marks visible.”

Loss of beads, sequins, metal threads or other embellishments from a decorated textile.

Empty stitching loops; missing beads against patterned ground; sometimes loose elements collected in folds or storage.

Stitching thread degradation, mechanical stress or past wear may contribute.

• extent and distribution of loss
• any retained loose elements
• condition of remaining attachment threads
• areas at risk of further loss

“Bead loss was recorded across the bodice, with several loose beads collected in the lower fold of the storage support.”

Partial or complete detachment of an applied trim, braid, fringe or border.

Hanging or loose lengths of trim; residual stitching marks on the textile; sometimes with associated thread loss along the line of attachment.

Stitching thread degradation, handling stress or past intervention may contribute.

• location and length of detachment
• condition of trim where still attached
• evidence of past re-attachment
• stability of remaining stitching

“The lower fringe was recorded as detached over approximately 300 mm of its length, hanging loose from the body of the textile.”

Generalised damage at the perimeter of the textile, including loss, fraying, distortion and weakening.

Irregular edge profile; loss of original edge finish; thread loss; sometimes with associated soiling.

Handling, mounting stress, environmental exposure or past wear may contribute.

• extent and type of edge damage
• stability of remaining edge
• evidence of past repair or finishing
• areas at risk of further loss

“Edge damage was recorded along the upper edge, with loss of the original woven selvedge and associated fraying.”

Areas of weakened textile that bear load without underlying support, placing them at risk of progressive failure.

Sagging, distortion or thinning of weakened areas; sometimes with visible thread breakage at points of stress.

Loss of original support, fibre degradation or mounting choices may contribute.

• location of unsupported areas
• current means of support
• evidence of stress or progression
• associated fibre or thread damage

“Unsupported weakness was recorded in the central section, where degraded silk bears the weight of metal-thread embroidery above.”

Linear breaks through the textile fabric, of varying length and orientation.

Open or closed tears with possible associated thread loss, distortion or fraying along the edges.

Mechanical stress, snagging, fibre weakness or past handling may contribute.

• location, orientation and length of each tear
• associated thread loss or fraying
• stability of tear edges
• evidence of past repair

“A horizontal tear of approximately 120 mm was recorded in the lower right quadrant, with associated fraying along the upper edge.”

Linear separations within the textile typically following the warp or weft direction, often associated with weakened fibres.

Straight or nearly straight openings along grain lines; sometimes accompanied by adjacent thread breakage.

Fibre weakening along grain, weighted silks, past folding or sustained tension may contribute.

• location and orientation of splits
• association with folds or fold lines
• extent of any thread loss along the split
• stability of adjacent material

“Splits were recorded along the warp direction across the upper section, generally following previous fold lines.”

Loss of stitching integrity along original or later seams, allowing panels of the textile to separate.

Open seams with broken or missing stitching thread; sometimes with associated thread loss along the seam line.

Stitching thread degradation, mechanical stress or past intervention may contribute.

• location and length of seam failure
• condition of remaining stitching
• any associated damage to adjacent fabric
• evidence of past re-stitching

“Seam failure was recorded along the central back seam over approximately 200 mm, with the original stitching thread broken throughout.”

Whole panels or sections of the textile partially or fully detached from the main assembly.

Separated edges of panels; loose or hanging sections; sometimes with associated stitching residues.

Seam failure, structural weakness or past handling may contribute.

• extent and location of detachment
• condition of edges of detached panels
• evidence of past re-attachment
• stability of remaining attachments

“The lower lining panel was recorded as partially detached along its upper edge over approximately 400 mm.”

Localised distortion of the weave where individual yarns have been drawn out of position without breaking.

Loops or raised yarns standing proud of the surface; corresponding tension or distortion in adjacent areas.

Contact with sharp surfaces, hooks, jewellery or rough handling may contribute.

• location and extent of snags
• whether snags have caused thread breakage
• associated distortion of the weave
• evidence of recent or historic origin

“Snags were recorded in the upper section, with several yarns drawn into raised loops without associated breakage.”

Generalised departure from the textile's intended geometry, including waving, twisting or out-of-plane areas.

Visible undulations; uneven hang; areas that do not lie flat; sometimes associated with damage or repair.

Storage, mounting, moisture cycling, past repair or fibre changes may contribute.

• extent and pattern of distortion
• association with seams, repairs or damaged areas
• whether distortion is recent or longstanding
• evidence of progression

“Distortion was recorded across the central area of the hanging, with several waves visible in raking light.”

Permanent elongation of the textile under sustained load or tension, often most pronounced at suspension points.

Elongation of the textile compared to its original dimensions; thinning at stressed areas; sometimes with associated distortion.

Sustained hanging tension, mounting under stress or fibre creep may contribute.

• areas of greatest stretching
• association with hanging or suspension method
• associated thread or weave damage
• comparison with documented original dimensions where available

“Stretching was recorded at the upper hanging edge, with the textile noticeably elongated below the line of suspension.”

Reduction in textile dimensions, often associated with past moisture exposure or fibre changes.

Puckering or tightening of fabric; distortion around stitched or attached areas; sometimes with associated cracking of stiffened finishes.

Past wetting, environmental cycling or original finish behaviour may contribute.

• location and extent of shrinkage
• association with past staining or water exposure
• differential behaviour between fibres
• evidence of progression

“Shrinkage was recorded across an area approximately 150 mm in diameter on the left side, with associated puckering of the surrounding fabric.”

Linear distortion of the textile produced by folding, with creases that may be reversible or set.

Visible fold lines on the textile surface; sometimes raised or with associated soiling or fibre damage.

Storage, packing, handling or display arrangements may contribute.

• extent and direction of creasing
• whether creases are recent or set
• associated damage along crease lines
• evidence of past attempts at relaxation

“Creasing was recorded across the central section, with several pronounced horizontal folds from past storage.”

Folds that have become set in the textile and resist relaxation, often associated with fibre damage along the fold line.

Persistent, sharp fold lines; sometimes with associated fibre embrittlement, splits or thread loss along the crease.

Long-term folded storage, fibre weakening or past treatments may contribute.

• location and orientation of folds
• any associated splits or fibre loss
• evidence of attempts at relaxation
• stability of fold edges

“Permanent folds were recorded across the silk panel from past storage, with associated splitting along the fold lines.”

Fold lines along which the fibre has become brittle and prone to fracture, with or without visible cracking.

Stiffened fold lines; audible cracking when flexed; sometimes with visible splits or fibre loss.

Photodegradation, oxidation or long-term folded storage may contribute.

• extent of brittle folds
• associated splits or fibre loss
• areas at risk of fracture if flexed
• evidence of past flexing or unfolding attempts

“Brittle folds were recorded across the silk lining, with audible cracking observed on minimal flexing.”

Distortion arising from the manner of display, particularly hanging without adequate support.

Sagging at lower edges; pulled or stretched areas at suspension points; uneven hang; sometimes with associated thread breakage.

Inadequate support, unsuitable mounts or extended display periods may contribute.

• current mounting and support arrangement
• areas of greatest distortion
• associated fibre or thread damage
• duration of current display where known

“Display-related distortion was recorded along the lower edge, with pronounced sagging consistent with extended unsupported hanging.”

Distortion produced by compression of the textile within storage, including flattening, creasing and crushing of pile or embellishments.

Flattened pile; pressure marks; set creases; sometimes with associated abrasion or soiling.

Storage under weight, tight packing or stacked arrangements may contribute.

• areas of greatest compression
• associated damage to pile or embellishments
• evidence of recent or longstanding origin
• current storage arrangement where known

“Storage compression was recorded across the pile, with a flattened band consistent with past folded storage.”

Localised areas where the textile has been deformed by contact with another object or surface.

Discrete impressions, flattened areas or marks corresponding to a contacting object; sometimes with associated soiling.

Contact with hardware, mounts, stored items or display fittings may contribute.

• location, size and shape of marks
• association with identifiable contact points
• any associated soiling or fibre damage
• evidence of recent or longstanding origin

“Pressure marks were recorded on the reverse, corresponding in pattern to the underlying mount fittings.”

Loose particulate deposition resting on the textile surface, generally removable through controlled methods.

Visible dust on horizontal surfaces, in folds and along upward-facing pile; varying with display environment.

Open display, environmental airflow and duration since last cleaning may contribute.

• distribution and depth of dust
• association with environmental sources
• areas where dust appears ingrained
• fragility of the textile at affected areas

“Surface dust was recorded across the upper section, particularly along horizontal folds.”

Deposition of particulates beyond simple dust, including soot, fibres, plaster fragments or other site-specific material.

Discrete dark, light or coloured particles on the textile; sometimes with associated staining or local damage.

Building works, combustion sources, adjacent activities or environmental conditions may contribute.

• type and distribution of particulates
• association with environmental events
• evidence of staining or chemical interaction
• fragility of the textile at affected areas

“Particulate deposits were recorded across the surface, including dark particles consistent with combustion residues.”

Soiling that has become embedded within the textile structure, generally resistant to surface cleaning.

Generalised greying or darkening of the textile; persistent discolouration following past wear; sometimes localised at handling areas.

Long-term environmental exposure, past use, handling or incomplete past cleaning may contribute.

• extent and distribution of soiling
• areas of greatest concentration
• association with wear patterns
• evidence of past cleaning attempts

“Ingrained soiling was recorded across the central section, with generalised darkening of the original ground colour.”

Localised soiling, abrasion or fibre damage at points where the textile has been repeatedly handled.

Darkening, thinning, fraying or loss at edges, handling tabs, hems or recurrent contact points.

Repeated handling, use or display patterns may contribute.

• location of handling wear
• associated fibre damage
• evidence of past stabilisation
• current handling arrangements where known

“Wear was recorded along the lower edge consistent with repeated handling, with associated thread loss in places.”

Surface damage caused by friction against another surface, with associated fibre damage or pile loss.

Thinned or worn areas; broken fibres on the surface; localised loss of pile or surface decoration.

Contact with rough surfaces, repeated rubbing or past mounting may contribute.

• location and extent of abrasion
• association with mounts or contacting surfaces
• stability of remaining surface
• evidence of progression

“Abrasion was recorded across the upper section consistent with rubbing against the previous mount.”

Visible fungal growth on or within the textile, current or historic.

Spotted, fuzzy or powdery growth in white, grey, green, black or pink shades; sometimes with associated staining or fibre damage.

Past moisture exposure, high humidity or restricted air circulation may contribute.

• location, extent and colour of growth
• evidence of active versus historic activity
• associated staining or fibre damage
• environmental conditions in storage or display

“Discrete spots consistent with mould growth were recorded along the lower edge; activity status could not be confirmed at the time of survey.”

Damage to the textile consistent with the activity of clothes moth, carpet beetle or other textile pests.

Irregular holes, grazed surfaces, loss of pile or fibre; sometimes accompanied by larval cases, frass or live or dead specimens.

Activity of textile pests in current or past environments may contribute; species identification is not implied.

• location, extent and pattern of damage
• associated evidence (cases, frass, specimens)
• evidence of active versus historic activity
• environmental and pest-management context where known

“Damage consistent with textile pest activity was recorded across the wool ground, with associated larval cases observed in folds.”

Surface loss of fibres without full-thickness holes, often associated with early-stage insect activity.

Thinned or worn areas with characteristic grazed appearance; partial loss of pile; sometimes accompanied by fibre dust.

Grazing by textile pest larvae or other surface-feeding activity may contribute.

• location and extent of grazing
• associated evidence of pest activity
• comparison between affected and adjacent areas
• evidence of progression

“Grazing damage was recorded across the wool pile in the central area, with associated fibre dust on the storage surface.”

Particulate evidence of pest activity, including larval frass, cast skins or other residues.

Granular, fibrous or powdery residues collected in folds, on storage surfaces or trapped in pile.

Activity of textile pests, current or historic, may contribute.

• location and quantity of evidence
• type of residues observed
• association with visible damage
• evidence of active versus historic activity

“Pest frass was recorded in folds along the lower edge, consistent with past activity; no live specimens were observed at the time of survey.”

Localised discolouration of the textile produced by contact with foreign material.

Discrete or diffuse marks of varying colour, shape and intensity; sometimes with associated fibre damage or stiffening.

Past contact with food, beverages, biological material, environmental residues or handling may contribute; identification of staining agent is rarely possible from observation alone.

• location, size and colour of stains
• associated fibre damage or stiffening
• evidence of past cleaning attempts
• stability of the staining over time

“Several discrete stains were recorded across the lower section, varying in colour from pale yellow to brown.”

Linear or curvilinear marks at the boundary of a past moisture event, where dissolved material has accumulated as the textile dried.

Hard-edged lines following the limit of moisture penetration; often darker than adjacent material; sometimes with associated staining or fibre damage.

Past wetting, capillary movement and drying may contribute.

• location, length and orientation of tide marks
• associated staining within the affected area
• evidence of fibre damage along the line
• any record of past water events

“A tide mark was recorded across the lower section, consistent with a past water event followed by drying in place.”

Diffuse discolouration from past moisture exposure, often without a defined boundary.

Generalised darkening or yellowing of affected areas; sometimes with associated tide marks at the perimeter.

Past leaks, condensation or other moisture exposure may contribute.

• extent and distribution of staining
• association with tide marks or sharp boundaries
• any record of past water events
• evidence of fibre weakening within affected areas

“Water staining was recorded across an area approximately 300 mm square on the lower right, with a defined tide mark at its lower edge.”

Visible alteration of metal-wound or metal-foil threads, including tarnishing, blackening or loss of reflectivity, often associated with moisture or pollutants.

Darkened, dulled or green-tinged metal threads; sometimes with associated staining of adjacent fibres or thread breakage.

Atmospheric pollutants, humidity cycling or past wetting may contribute.

• location and extent of corrosion effects
• associated staining or damage to adjacent fibres
• evidence of past cleaning or coating
• stability of metal threads under handling

“Tarnishing of metallic threads was recorded across the embroidered motifs, with associated darkening of adjacent silk.”

Loss of colour intensity in dyes or pigments resulting from cumulative light exposure.

Reduced colour saturation across exposed areas; visible difference between display surface and reverse or covered areas.

Cumulative exposure to visible light and ultraviolet radiation may contribute.

• extent and distribution of fading
• comparison between exposed and unexposed areas
• any record of past light exposure or display history
• evidence of associated fibre degradation

“Fading was recorded across the front of the textile, with the original colour preserved at the reverse and within folds.”

Uneven fading across the textile, often associated with particular dyes, shading from objects or partial cover during display.

Patterned variation in colour intensity; sharp lines where partial cover has shielded portions of the textile; differential change between dye classes.

Object shadows, mount layouts or differential dye sensitivity may contribute.

• pattern and orientation of differential fading
• association with display arrangements
• differential behaviour between dye colours
• evidence of past covers or mounts

“Differential fading was recorded across the panel, with sharp boundaries consistent with past partial cover during display.”

Change in hue rather than simple loss of saturation, often associated with chemical changes in dyes.

Original colours appearing altered in hue, sometimes towards yellow, brown or grey; differences between exposed and protected areas.

Photochemical alteration of dyes, oxidation or interaction with pollutants may contribute.

• extent and direction of colour shift
• comparison with protected reverse or covered areas
• association with particular colours or dye classes
• evidence of progression

“Colour shift was recorded across the embroidered ground, with original greens now appearing predominantly brown.”

Combined evidence of fibre weakening, embrittlement and colour change consistent with cumulative light damage.

Faded, brittle, weakened material on the display surface; intact, less faded material on the reverse or in folds.

Cumulative exposure to visible light and ultraviolet radiation may contribute.

• extent of differential damage between exposed and protected areas
• associated fibre weakening or loss
• display history where known
• current environmental conditions

“Photodegradation indicators were recorded across the display face, with associated embrittlement and fibre loss consistent with extended exposure.”

Earlier patching of damaged areas using new or salvaged textile, of varying technical quality and conservation appropriateness.

Visible patches on front or reverse; differences in colour, weave or fibre type compared with original; sometimes with associated distortion at the edges.

Past repair campaigns of varying date and approach may contribute.

• location, size and method of patches
• compatibility with original material
• stability of patch attachment
• any associated damage to original material

“A previous patch repair was recorded on the reverse, with a square of dissimilar fabric secured by stitching along its perimeter.”

Visible adhesive or glue residues from past repairs, sometimes with associated staining or stiffening of the textile.

Glossy, yellowed or stiffened areas; sometimes with associated darkening of adjacent fibres; occasional brittle adhesive deposits.

Past repair using adhesives may contribute; adhesive type is rarely identifiable from observation alone.

• location and extent of residues
• associated discolouration or stiffening
• stability of the textile in affected areas
• evidence of past failed repairs

“Adhesive residue was recorded on the reverse along a past repair edge, with associated yellowing and stiffening of the textile.”

Past repair stitching that is materially incompatible, mechanically damaging or visually obtrusive.

Coarse or modern thread used over original material; tight stitching producing distortion; thread of incompatible colour or fibre.

Past repairs of varying date, skill and material choice may contribute.

• location, extent and method of stitching
• any distortion or stress at stitch points
• compatibility of repair thread with original
• stability of original material around repairs

“Inappropriate repair stitching was recorded across the central tear, with coarse synthetic thread producing pronounced distortion.”

Failure or degradation of a support fabric previously applied to stabilise the textile.

Loose, torn or detached support fabric; sometimes more degraded than the original textile; loss of intended support function.

Age of support, environmental conditions, original material choice or fibre incompatibility may contribute.

• extent of support fabric failure
• associated stress or damage to original material
• evidence of past attachment method
• current load-bearing arrangement

“Support fabric failure was recorded across the reverse, with the previous support partially detached and no longer providing effective support.”

Earlier lining, backing or interlayer applied to the textile, of varying material and condition.

Secondary fabric layer attached to the reverse; sometimes visible at edges; variable condition and adhesion.

Past conservation, display or use practices may contribute.

• type and extent of lining or backing
• method of attachment where assessable
• condition and stability
• evidence of differential movement or distortion

“A past linen backing was recorded across the reverse, partially detached at the lower edge and showing differential discolouration.”

Localised stress on the textile associated with its current mounting, with potential for progressive damage.

Pulled, stretched or distorted areas at attachment points; sometimes with associated thread loss or fibre weakening.

Mount design, attachment method, textile weight or condition may contribute.

• location and extent of stress
• method of attachment
• associated fibre or thread damage
• stability of current arrangement

“Mount stress was recorded along the upper edge, with localised pulling and thread breakage at attachment points.”

Distortion produced by extended hanging without adequate support across the full upper edge.

Sagging across the body of the textile; pulled areas at concentrated suspension points; uneven lower edge.

Inadequate support, extended display periods or unsuitable hanging fixtures may contribute.

• current method of hanging
• areas of greatest deformation
• associated fibre or thread damage
• duration of current display where known

“Deformation from hanging was recorded across the textile, with pronounced sagging consistent with extended unsupported display.”

Localised distortion or marking produced by underlying mount fittings, fixings or supports.

Discrete impressions, raised or flattened areas corresponding to mount features; sometimes with associated soiling or fibre damage.

Mount design, fixing protrusion or extended contact may contribute.

• location and pattern of marks
• correspondence with underlying mount features
• associated fibre damage
• evidence of recent or longstanding origin

“Pressure marks were recorded on the reverse, corresponding in pattern to the underlying mount support battens.”

Damage produced by current or past storage arrangements, including compression, contact with unsuitable materials and inadequate support.

Creasing, compression, staining or soiling consistent with storage; sometimes with associated migration of materials from packaging.

Storage materials, packing methods, environmental conditions or duration may contribute.

• type and extent of damage
• association with identifiable storage practices
• evidence of material migration from packaging
• current storage arrangement

“Storage-related damage was recorded across the textile, including set creases and localised staining consistent with past packaging materials.”